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This page is intended to offer help and assistance to our customers and boat owners who wish to remove or refit their windows and hatches as well as general upkeep.

As with any help page we are confident you appreciate that we are unable to accept any liability for mishaps or damage arising from the use of any information contained within this web site.

Before commencing any work, here are a few general hints and tips that we hope you may find useful.

• It is best to allow plenty of time for any task

• Always use good quality tools that are the correct size for the job you are carrying out

• Make sure someone else is close by to help you especially when working on larger windows

• Plan your work carefully and start off with an “easy” task first. e.g. remove the smallest window first.

Removing a Window

Tools required: Masking tape (19mm or 25mm), screwdriver, combination pliers, 2”-3” good quality filler knife/scraper and lightweight hide or nylon mallet.

Using the masking tape, label the windows and the inner trim rings (if fitted) to include location and orientation, e.g. STBD AFT ?

Loosen the screws all the way round the window – if you have inter-screws (threaded sleeve nuts) fixed to the trim ring inside your boat, you may need the help of someone to hold them with a screwdriver or pliers to stop them from rotating.

Remove all the screws in pairs that are diagonally opposite each other. Remove any other fittings or attachments that may impede your access to the windows. The trim rings will now be loose and will drop down so be aware of any potential problems e.g. the headlining may be attached to them or they may scratch some wooden interior fittings.

Using the mallet, gently tap the filler knife into the joint between the window and the GRP/wood of your boat. It is best to only tap the filler knife in about 1/8” or 3mm and work your way around the whole window. Repeat this several times until the filler knife comes in contact with the inner flange of the window frame. If your window is a piece of Perspex screwed directly onto the boat, the filler knife blade should be visible from the inside of the boat. If your windows have been sealed with an adhesive type sealant, you may need to insert a long thin blade into the joint to cut the sealant.

Your windows should now be ready for removal. If it does not come out readily, someone on the inside can assist by gently pushing from the inside. On no account should you use a screwdriver or other tool to lever the window out – it will result in damage to your boat and window.

Count and store all the trim rings and fixings until required again for re-fitting the windows.

Removing and re-fitting a hatch

As with the windows, use a piece of masking tape to identify the location of the hatch.

Unless it is necessary, do not remove the base plate (or ring) that is attached to the deck of your boat. This should have a good seal, and if it is removed, will require cleaning and resealing. Most hatch tops or lids can be removed by either knocking out the hinge pin with a mallet and parallel punch or unscrewing the hinges from the top or base.

If you are sending the hatch to Eagle Boat Windows for repair, please leave all the handles and hinges attached as we will service and reseal them.

Refitting the hatch should be straight forward and opposite of the above sequence. Please be aware that if a new seal has been fitted, the hatch will feel very stiff/tight on fastening down.

Re-fitting an Aluminium Framed Window

The notes below refer to sealing the window with the non-setting bedding compound as supplied by Eagle Boat Windows which is recommended for this application. Do not use an adhesive based sealing compound as this will cause problems and prevent you from removing the windows without damage to the frame and the boat.

Check the fit of the window in the aperture. Carry out one or two “dry” fits of the window using all the fixings and inner trim rings (if used) to make sure that there are no problems.

To fit the windows, cut the nozzle at 45°, and apply a 6mm/¼” bead of bedding compound in line with the screw holes around the inside of the window flange that butts against the GRP/wood of your boat.

Present the window to the aperture (remember orientation!) and press it against the boat. You will see a witness of bedding compound appear in the holes where the screws locate. If your windows are fixed using inter-screws, you must remove the witness of bedding compound otherwise it will be trapped in the inter-screw and you will not be able to tighten the screw correctly. Insert the screws and tighten very lightly around the window. Working your way around the window several times, tighten the screws so that there is virtually no gap between the frame and the boat.

Leave the witness of bedding compound to harden for a few days and then, using the small plastic scraper supplied, peel off the excess compound. If there are any stubborn remnants of material, use a soft cloth and White Spirit to remove it.


Fitting a frameless Perspex window

Warning - do not use a powered screwdriver when fitting a Perspex window!

As with the aluminium framed window above, the notes below refer to sealing the window with the non-setting bedding compound as supplied by Eagle Boat Windows which again is recommended for this application.

Check the fit of the window on the side of the boat and check the alignment of the fixing holes. It may help to carry out a “dry” fit of the window using all the fixings to make sure that there are no problems.

To fit the windows, cut the nozzle of the bedding compound at 45°, and apply a 6mm/¼” bead of bedding compound in line with the screw holes around the inside of the window that butts against the GRP/wood of your boat.

If your window is not being fitted to a flat surface (e.g. it is fitted to the side of your boat), then it may be helpful to insert a small plain stainless steel washer between the Perspex and your boat at each screw position. This will ensure that the thickness bedding compound is even over the whole length of the window and that there will be little or no migration of bedding compound in the middle area of the window.

Present the window to the aperture (remember orientation!) and press it against the boat. You will see a witness of bedding compound appear in the holes where the screws locate and this must be removed. Insert the screws and tighten very lightly around the window. Working your way around the window several times, tighten the screws so that there is an even gap of about 1 to 2mm between the Perspex and the boat. Always be aware of the torque you are applying to the screw and watch for any bowing of the window between the screws.

Leave the witness of bedding compound to harden for a few days and then, using the small plastic scraper supplied, peel off the excess compound. If there are any stubborn remnants of material, use a soft cloth and White Spirit to remove it.


Looking after your windows and hatches

There are many polishes and treatments on the market for the upkeep of aluminium frames. The most common problem that our customers encounter are scratches in glass or Perspex.

Scratches in glass

Almost all glass used in boats is toughened glass and by the process of annealing, the surface is very hard indeed. If you have a large or deep scratch, there is virtually nothing you can do about it other than replacing the glass.

If the glass has a small scratch or a metal abrasion mark, this could be removed (polished out) with the use of an electric drill equipped with a polishing head and a Cerium Oxide solution. There are kits available and should contain all the necessary parts and instructions for you to carry out the job.

Scratches in Perspex

As with glass, if the Perspex has a deep scratch in it, this cannot be removed. If your Perspex is crazed, this too cannot be polished out; the crazing is caused by the effect of UV light on the material and can be up to 3mm deep.

To remove small scratches, obtain a couple of pieces of soft cotton cloth and a bottle of liquid car polish that does not obtain any abrasives. Do not use a colour restorer (T Cut) or pre-coloured car polish or the hard wax polish in tins. On a small area first, apply a spot of polish on the cloth and rub in lightly. Leave to dry and remove the residue with the other cloth. Repeat if necessary.

Using car polish once or twice a year on your Perspex keeps its appearance and can offer some protection against minor abrasions.


Moving Parts

Hatch handles and moving parts on opening windows should be cleaned and lubricated at least once a year.

Channels in sliding windows should be cleaned out every year and if the sliding action becomes difficult, apply some silicone or maintenance lubricant.


 
 
 

British Marine Federation

BMF No. 1037
 
Please contact Robert or Sally McKelvey at:

Eagle Boat Windows
U
nit 9, Kenyon Court
Kenyon Road
Lomeshaye Industrial Estate
NELSON
Lancashire
BB9 5TF

Tel and Fax: 01282 697700

Email sales@eagleboatwindows.co.uk 
 
Marine boat window repair for all types of craft, Removing boat Windows aluminium frames,
frameless Perspex window hints and tips, Boat window renovation
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