Removing Lewmar New/Old Standard Ports

Another thing I end up repeating in emails so here's my thoughts. This guidance applies equally to all versions of New Standard (Mk1-3) and Old Standard Ports. I'll try and add photos later.

On a similar vein I've already done an article on removing fixed windows on my boat so this is well worth a read too. It has photos as well.

Removing a fixed window - step by step...

Step 1 - Remove the inner trim

If fitted... The inner trim is an ABS (plastic) moulding and is purely cosmetic. It is fixed to the inner ring (alloy) with a few small (~30mm x 8mm) velcro strips. They come in two colours; CREAM (more of a light sand colour) and WHITE (more ivory) with the former being the default. ABS suffers from UV exposure so over time these will fade, but more importantly will be brittle and easy to crack during removal.

To approach removal try and use both hands to grip the upper and lower section towards one end and pull gently to release the velcro. Do not lever off as chances are you will break it.

Spares are available for New Standard units but NOT for Old Standard Units, so be extra careful with Old Standard Trims.

Some boats won't have the trims, just the inner rings.

Step 2 - Remove inner ring

The inner rings fit around the cutout and have M5 machine screws which fasten through the cutout hole into the outer frame, clamping the unit to the hull. The machine screws may be crosshead, slotted or hex head. If hex head use your best allen keys as these are very easy to round.

In most cases the fasteners will release relatively easily and with all removed the inner ring can be removed and placed somewhere safe along with the fasteners and inner trim.

I you sense the fasteners are corroded and likely to be difficult some releasing fluid (eg white spirit) and localised heating (heat gun with nozzle) will help. A wack with a hammer and drift may break any corrosive bond too.

The last resort is to drill out the head(s) but this is very unlikely to be needed.

Step 3 - Remove the outer frame

At this point the only thing holding the frame to the outside of the hull is the bedding compound between the frame flange and hull. On these units the flange is narrow (~12mm) which is good. The bedding could be butyl (traditional) in tape or goo form, or silicone or a PU adhesive like Sikaflex. Lets all hop it is not the last as if so this may be VERY VERY difficult to remove (Please don't use a PU for bedding windows - in fact I'd prefer to ban it altogether, but it is used to bond on some modern frameless windows so I can't get away from it completely).

The flange is probably close to the hull with virtually no gap to get a knife in to cut the bedding to release, so we need to find a way of creating a gap.

For this the following would be useful;

• Engineers Wedge (ideally two) - this is a wide (~30mm) very fine wedge, preferably metal, but plastic ones are available. If the gap is a fraction of a mm the wedge should still sneek its snout in to increase the gap.

• Two hammer/mallets and two wooden drifts

• Scalpel or modellers knife (flat) with new blade (not a Stanley knife as this won't lay flat)

Best with two people, one on the deck side with hammer, drift and wedge, wedge laid flat on hull up against one end of the frame, drift against the fat end of the wedge and hammer ready to encourage (the drift means you don't hit the hull).

When primed, the other person on the inside places the drift (as large as will fit) against the inner (same) end of the frame and gives it a few wacks while at the same time their partner in crime tries to get the wedge in.

Hopefully the internal shocks will partially lift the frame from the hull and allow the wedge in.

With the wedge in it should be possible to insert the knife and cut the bedding compound after which the wedge can be moved around and the cutting repeated. It's easier too do the upper section first (as access is much easier) and then tackle the lower section.

Hopefully this is all very straight forward and you will soon have the frame away from the hull. Resist any temptation to lever/pull the frame away as this may bend the frame. Cut all the way around please.

Step 4 - Clean up

GRP will scratch, but an acrylic scraper won't. If careful you can also use the back of a stanley knife blade or a chisel, but be careful!. White spirit is good for softening bedding compounds but do remember to wipe over with acetone or IPA prior to rebedding as it will leave an oily residue.

Step 5 - Cover the hole

For Old Standard units in catalogue sizes we offer temporary lids which utilise the inner rings and fasteners and are the best option. If New Standard then you'll have to construct a cover. Don't just use polythene as this will pant and be gone the next time a wind comes through. Use something stiff (eg 6mm MDF). The lazy way would be to fix with wide duck tape, but this will leave a residue. Better would be to put a simple single sided rubber seal (eg 10 x 10mm from eBay) around the edge of the cutout and then bolt the cover in position using spacer pieces on the inside. Take a look at the other page linked at the start for some visuals on this.